Making camouflage Gilly own hands.

Making camouflage Gilly own hands.

1) Buy a shape (from a good, dense tissue) of any color. Size or a size 1-2 or more if worn over the basic shape (better try on before you buy). To form a hood sewn.

2) Then, a masking areas (back, sides, a hood, the shoulders, the outer part of the hands, back and side of the foot) is sewn monofilament fishing net (cell 2, 5 or 3 cm). The network is sewn on the perimeter and in the middle in a few places (network should not sag or something ottopyrivatsya). This network is not to hang out and less catchy. It is better to sew thick a nylon thread - it strong and durable (no rotting).

3) At the front part of the jacket and the trousers are sewn seal (any strong and dense tissue, such as tent c / b or Cordura). It is necessary for the protection of the suit and the body when crawling as well as for long lying on the ground. I sewed on the front of the jacket two pieces of camping mat, covered with a cloth (lying warm and dry, even in wet and cold ground). On elbows stitched elbow pads (many layers of fabric that was soft and comfortable). The same lap.

It is also possible to sew on butt seals and groin. It is also recommended to use special sniper Seats, 4) on the jacket and pants are sewn pockets or do so to be able to use their native form pockets. At appropriate places (typically the jacket from below and laterally on the upper part of the breast) for attachment of pouches sewn (type fasteners depends pouches). I use pouches with MOLLE attachment (aka UMBTS). Also on my upper chest sewn holster for the PM - the gun is always at hand and retrieved quickly, even from a prone position. 5) The sewn areas masking the desired amount of gum. Under the gum will be fixed leaves, twigs, grass, bark, and so on. D.

On Velcro sewn cuffs (for tightening the sleeve sliding around and crawling vermin to any sleeve not crawled).

6) the desired number of harvested flax or jute fibers. It is possible to dissolve the bags or buy a thread already in the finished coils. The total length of the yarn should be between 40 cm and 60 cm. Stain dyes can for natural fabrics. Colors are selected independently. I use the thread of gray, brown and native undyed colors. Each color is the same number.

Together with the threads can paint any pieces of rags.

7) The threads woven into the cell network. In one cell not more than four interwoven yarns (yarns are folded into halves, the resulting loop is passed under the cell and in this loop passes the rest of the tail yarn loop hereinafter simply delayed). Weaving is carried out from the lower portion to the upper camouflage. In one cell, you can weave the threads of one color, and the thread can be of different colors. As a result, camouflage pattern is a little different (in my cell woven yarns of different colors). Not necessary to weave the thread into each well (camouflage cloak might be too thick), better after one or two.

8) Further camouflage cloak sewn pieces / strips of fabric and / or burlap. On the shoulders, back and rear side of the pants are sewn large pieces of fabric on the sides of the hood and the outside of the hand - pieces smaller. The front part of the jacket and the trousers are sewn small pieces of tissue (not to cling with crawling). Fit any pieces of fabric scraps, old form, work clothes, bed linen, burlap, canvas, and so on.. In general, what you will find. 9) Now you can use camouflage, correcting deficiencies or upgrading as needed.

This camouflage cloak I did for spring / autumn time. In the summer there is hot, and in the late autumn or early spring - just super. For summer version should do less artificial disguise more gums for natural camouflage.

It is advisable not to wet camouflage cloak in water and do not fall under the rain, as it becomes very hard and loses of volume.

You should also stay away from open flames and careful with lighters, cigarettes and so on. D.

For color matching is necessary to make the photo area, where you want to work in a camouflage suit and take the area of ​​grass samples, soil, leaves, bark, stones and so on. D. It's useful when painting yarn and fabrics (for comparison, the results obtained with the color of samples ).

At first it may not turn out very well, but that's okay. All the same, everyone is doing camouflage cloak to fit your needs, and alterations in any case can not be avoided.

This option is the base. It is always necessary to supplement camouflage cloak natural vegetation of the area in which you work.