400 km skating Baikal (Part 2)
Continuation of the story - below about dragons, friendly cats, shamans and complex path selection.
sleep off based Oltrek, ate in the dining room cisco. The hostess Lena us very kindly accepted. We went to ride on the islands of Small Sea. Jura wanted to ride with us, but we missed - he went before, and we are after yesterday's haul were slightly dried ... But together with the spirit - and rolled out after lunch sleep on the ice. We are on the way to Lake Baikal was accompanied by a cool black cat is also very friendly, good-natured.
On the sea a lot of fishermen. Sit yourself in their "Kamchatka" and catch fish all day long. Basically, cisco.
It is very picturesque headlands and caves capes Small Sea: everywhere you can find a cave, to get into it, look at napleski-juice. A Baikal here restless. Sit down to rest on the ice - and you feel like in a cauldron of boiling water. Strongly something inside the bubbling sensations such that vibration is given to each Bulka ice. Comparisons gastronomic again come to mind - when dinner?
Around the base Oltrek amazing turquoise ice, with small bubbles, frozen in it needles and threads. On the ice, often lie huge shards, bricks. And where did they come only here? Ice everywhere smooth, cracks are not near ...
The island Oltrek - wonderful icicles and napleski. This so-called juice. If the juice began to form - it means that nature will soon catch Baikal in winter cold chain. From autumn to winter the water level in the lake is reduced by as much as half a meter, and even more, that the formation of such fancy mushrooms, ice caves and icicles from the islands and headlands. Yes, and the wind joker water splashing on the rocks: the coast the ice before freezing - and Baikal water break with a strong spray of coastal ice floes.
The explosive temper-Lake Legends and creates such pictures. And if we go wet snow ... They say that in some years even Cape Kobylya head was completely covered with juice from the bottom to the top. And there is almost 30-40 meters height.
In Oltrek island can easily be taken away. For some reason, when we take away on the islands of the earth, that covers some sacred, high sense of peace and tranquility. Feel the power.
Oltrek from afar looks like a 2 island: white and brown, Yin and Yang, combined in one rush. On both sides, you can safely go to the top, touching on the way to the rocky outcrops, looking like a monument Burhan. In the photo - Cape Hadarta:
Here is an excerpt from the wonderful book "Around the lake for 73 days," Eric Butakova:
"Here on Lake Baikal still has two inseparable sides and each side is not worse than the other, each complements the other and can not exist without it. Well, for example: Russian (Irkutsk region) and Buryat shore. On both shores of the Lake and live Russian and Buryat. Both revere and Buryat spirits (Burhan) and pray in Orthodox churches. House, clothes, food, language, children, lifestyle and way of life, but almost everything - linked and forever be ridiculous (mestizo). But when they have finished drinking some representatives of ethnic Glorious Sea, immediately become - a staunch Buryat, a helluva lot belokostnym Russian. And ... I flew! In the morning, otmachivaya bruises, freshen the nip together or Russian vodka, or Buryat tarasun, more often - and that, and another, and at the same time. That village, almost all: the Small, the Great. Apparently nazhrutsya two brothers Buguldeytsa, raskhleschutsya in dribadan, and younger brother wandered over the hill to cut his farm, and he did narok Minor. In my opinion, something that is ... "
Small Sea ice is amazing. It is impossible to break away from the cracks, ravines, which reflect a kaleidoscope generous sun Siberia.
In the silence of the winter Baikal can hear the sound of his heart.
You can listen to the wind, look at the crack of ice ...
along the shore of Lake Baikal from Oltrek base you can walk to the pebble spit with Kurminskim Cape (Cape Uyuga). With the rise of the cape and see the Baikal, and all the camp site on the beach. Some very different experience from the lake here. Here civilization, houses and heat. There is no longer the feeling that it was the first 4 days in the wilderness. But Baikal became a little warmer and home for us.
If possible, try to climb on the highest point of the islands of Lake Baikal. Survey views of the ice is good.
From Cape Uyuga go through Oltrek Ogoy island to island.
"In Small Sea has an island - Ogoy called. So it is worth a Buddhist stupa. Stupa of enlightenment. She put the shamans of northern and Siberian peoples, together with Buddhist monks. It laid the wise books, mantra, power, piercing weapons, and there is something else. Officially - it's a kind of shrine, stone, which believers can make a wish and it will come true. However, when we were here in 2006, then spent the night at one of the Buryat family. And the guy, the head of the family, Buddhist, told us another reason for which all the most important Buddhist planet established here this stupa.
- They buried there universal evil - he said - and on top put this stupa, which prevents him to go free.
- Why here? - I asked
- Because a small stupa. A holy water lake. The shamans say that more reliable places in the world to find. Here we are buried here, even we did not ask. And we need it here?
I am not a Buddhist, so do not know what the reason is true, but I do not need it ... "
With your permission, I reflected the image horizontally perceived close to my feelings.
When you stand before the end of the island Ogoy, it seems that there really are living spirits Lakes. Sinister tail of the dragon rises over the ice, ripping the sky with sharp spines. Well, if you imagine that this is not a dragon, and there are no spirits there - it just looks like a giant mosquito. Which is also, in general, very bad for a heightened perception of the traveler ...
And here we come to the very mortar. Buddhist stupa was built on the island Ogoy relatively recently - in the summer of 2005 officially referred to as the Enlightenment Stupa, Conquering Demons containing a statue of the female form, the Mother of all Buddhas only Mother Troma Nagmo.
In general, the severity of some sort, rather than the name of the stupa. And the essence is this: it was built (built all summer), and put to many different relics. Now go out there and pilgrims, tourists, worship the stupa, relax thoughts.
The guys were like a few times around the stupa, greeted the sunset. Leaving under a blanket of clouds sun illuminated the gloomy island Olkhon, mountains of the West Bank.
For a depressing feeling, heavy here. Like a million thoughts at the same time you had fallen. Anxiety and fear, grief and doubt. Unusually there, knowingly chose this place in the stupa.
All around the curtained ribbons. I feel like in Nepal ...
of the setting sun.
The more we descend into the gloom - the stronger oppresses this place. It is necessary to have to return to base, to heat and light. And then there is every piece of ice as though watching the sly ...
Good fly across the ice to warm the house with the stove light. By the way, at home in the cozy Oltreke how flooded the Russian stove - and nowhere to sleep better. Cheeks red from the cold and wind, worn out us. And even after all and bath today! We go to the bathhouse, the beauty here - bath heat immediately relaxes. Warm up with brooms, showered - and sleep. Fairy tale. Thank Oltreku, thanks to this affable home. And especially thanks to the Jura. So you want to come back here again.
Today program - go to Cape Elga Olkhon (from the Buryat Elga - "ovrazhy" Elga - "gully"). Come on Oltreka through Zamogoi. Weather again good, honestly, it becomes annoying: the sun shines brightly, blinding eyes of ice. And the photos are good can be done only in the weather with cloud. We stop for lunch at the island Zamogoi, which impresses with its impregnable rock walls. We sit quietly, ready to accept food. And then - growing hooting and banging on the other side of the lake. lightning sound reaches us, shaking the ice, pops strained. We jump from their seats as the disturbed squirrels, look around. Phew, it had passed like the sound went on. Pampers Baikal, shows his power. Gophers - burrow lunch. We get up - go further. Soon the path is blocked by a fresh wide crack: apparently, was opened after the earthquake. Crack does not go: keep Elgaysky way into the bay. Reached fairly quickly to the shore of Olkhon.
The local Buryat there is a legend that on the island were grazing herds Genghis Khan, and that on one of the mountains is worth it left the boiler. The biggest settlement of Olkhon Buryat apparently ulus Dolonargun, in which up to 25 yurts and more than a hundred people. Some say that there is buried Genghis Khan himself (though about what places just do not say ...).
They climbed a hill and sat down and then we embraced such a strong sense of peace and tranquility. Probably because the first time we Olkhonskiye on earth. Finally reached its goal. Circle - the steppe, clouds scatter, Baikal buzzing in front of us as if with a sudden wave of missed bumping into Olkhon. So good that go nowhere and do not want. Sit and watch the lake.
But no, the goal today - Khuzhir. There are many more beautiful places ahead, we must move. We drive along the coast of Olkhon already. Here Lesch very well tells us phone Thani, landlady in Khuzhir. So, where will spend the night! Now go along the ice track MRS-Khuzhir.
Going once ruefully: civilization, car pass by, honking, waving their hands. Ice in gasoline, groomed and beaten. Most would go again and get into a wilderness where there are no cars and people. Almost on the way to Khuzhir by us flying machines expedition: ATVs, jeeps. The guys obviously with interest stare at us, waving their hands, welcoming. As a very uncomfortable we become, both in the zoo are sitting in cells, but as a look at wild animals on you.
One of the cars stopped - climbs peasants greet us. Begin to wonder, to question, to touch and photograph our skates Norwegian. Immediately evident - not local. Probably Muscovites, and in extreme cases irkutchane, so lets deal with the guests. A little man with an air of importance to us begins to tell of how dangerous Baikal, and what a terrible undertaking, we got involved. Either he got drunk, whether we look at all the children. I think to myself: oh, they got rid soon - we would get to Khuzhir, warm up, stand some cold lyalyakat. "And let's photos with the monkeys!" - one of the broadcasts peasants. Come on, that You take with you! Everything - drove on! The men of the expedition, good, funny, but the way we are different. Soon we overtakes another car - there falls little man falls flat on the ice and begins to have "shoot", shouting at the same time heart-rending, "passes by!" Yes, sailed ...
Well, nothing, left everything on their hostels, leave us alone. And we got to calm bay, surprised icicles on a large abandoned ships. We phoned Tanya, got to the hotel. It was all very modest, but comfortable, cheap and clean. Tanya - a kind, warm person. All shown us help than you need. And what about the back with her car agreed. And one more interesting meeting in the evening: peasants, fishermen staged here for your business: buy fish from local and transported her to Irkutsk. Much we have learned and fishing, and places Olkhon.
All ran quickly to Shamanka! Not to miss the sunset. To seek refuge on the very land of the sun over the horizon. The place is impressive: a beautiful bay, the unusual rock - Cape Burhan. Great place of pilgrimage for tourists and photographers from around the world. On the left - a stone cliff Cape Hercules.
The sun slowly sets behind the mountains, and on the ice at the bottom run-fuss photographers. Gold poured into the ice of Lake Baikal. Slowly, new colors: purple, blue, night shade.
The historical name of the cape - Burhan - apparently went out of the traditions of the local people to make sacrifices in the cave rock Buryat spirits. More far it has been dumping shamans. The cave is located on the west Shamanka, height 3 meters and a narrow course runs through a rock through to the east. Now more commonly called Cape Burhan. The word "Burhan" Buryat Buddhists became known as the chief deity of Lake Baikal. "Boer" - the same as the name of Buddha. In the ancient Shamanic cave was a Buddhist chapel, in which were placed various figures of Buddhist deities, icons, candles and a variety of smoking sacrificial utensils.
VAObruchev, Russian scientist, who studied Baikal, wrote about the shaman: "... but the most remarkable superstitious fear that Olkhon Buryats fed to the cave. By Shamanic rocks can not pass on the wheels, but only on horseback or in a sleigh, why in the summer time communication between the western and eastern parts of Olkhon only on horseback, and then only in rare cases, as Buryats generally reluctant to go past the cave; .. In addition, in the event that one of the families of the deceased have, the members of this genus, ie, an entire half of the island, it was forbidden to pass by the cave for a time; For this reason, my guide - drilled from Dolon-Argun brought me to Khuzhir and came back, I was driving with another baptized Buryats past the cave to ulus Kharantsy here took another conductor; same thing "was on the way back.
And we continue to watch the sunset on the lake, watching the receding colors of dawn and recalled the legends and tales associated with this place of power. A lot of legends about this place. Here is one:
. And while taxiing screwy drilled pirouettes on his hondochke that it looks like a bug on the road ...
I went to take pictures of the most popular and "worn-out" point of the cape. And there are already a couple of photographers standing, the light catches. Talked - it turned out, these are the companions of the expedition. I took off a little light stretching. The peasants-photographers with tripods subsided under the omul and beer - enjoy life. One (probably the most annoying photographer) was on duty at the stand. Here it someone calls on the phone, and he replied: "I have hugh! - and hangs up. " Carried away by a man, though.
At the bottom of a passing car out of their group - the same photographer decided to exploit a driver for art's sake, he shouts through the shaman, "I need a red bar! Displace so as not syak! ". Apparently, not fate us to enjoy the peace Shamanka, understand it and leave the inside, to see live the legend of the holy place. One of the 9 Asian shrines, as in any way ... It remains to hope for the morning.
Good sleep in a hotel, the morning wake up healthy with the tide forces. I go through the sleepy calm Khuzhir to Burhan - to meet the sun. Ah, here again guys, colleagues. Laugh, joke is soaked discuss turning pink on the horizon mountains. That's the first rays on the Shaman: slowly cut through the red stripe on the crest of the mountain. Photographers tense: tightly grabbed his camera shake violently on ropes, excitedly shouting phrases like "That's it, now would be a clear band - do not shoot on!". Tension is growing, and the culmination of nastaot - there is the very unfortunate trait. Photographers swore and began to advise each other to stop the senseless attempts to capture completely spoiled shaman. They packed up their cameras - and went safely walk on, performing cherished mission.
And I still have a short time in silence. Okay, just sit on a rock, watching the sun as a fresh light shines all around.
Trees and poles in Shamanka all tied ribbons. They say that the spirits of the Buryat so it is necessary to appease, to open the way. In order not to get lost and get to his goal.
A bright blue sky, the village waking up. Somewhere a dog barking hysterically, Husky runs along a fence and waving a friendly tail. And I go back to your friends.
Local clearly realized that with the Germans, French and others like them, you can get a good income (more than cows, and labor necessary to put less).
Therefore, the local fast adapt to a new source of income - and decorated their unsightly domushki worthy Masterpieces of advertising. Case Ostap is alive and well! So I'm in a hotel.
Even the porridge is ready, all sit at the table. Quickly we are going, and move to Sandy bay.
Closer to Hoboyu - all strongly feel the tension of the ice. Floes converge amazing arrows, subtle strings are tightened, ready to crack and break, resent the power of Lake Baikal. Huge rock by the shore pushing on the ice. The confrontation forces Olkhon and Baikal power lasts for thousands of years.
We meet several groups of tourists. All go on foot, too big plans - bypass around Olkhon. Well, good luck to you guys! And we have our own way - to Hoboyu.
Today we get up for the night in a wonderful location, right at the Hobo. On the ice, the first time on the ice! Trying first to get the Boers - in the ice are not screwed. Either he so strong, or borax dull. Anyway, today the wind is still there.
trudged up the steep raspadku upstairs to look at Olkhon from a height. It offers a beautiful panoramic view of the lake and the shore of the island. Visible even western shore of Olkhon, and Cape Khoboy.
Watch our way tomorrow. Ice everywhere clean, without snow. Visible Ushkanyi islands on the horizon and a giant crack-faults. We get down, make a fire in a small cave-gully. Good it was: Again it's a feeling of detachment from civilization. Fire flames casts reflections on the large overhanging rocks, next - a giant bowl of Lake Baikal and flashed on the horizon cars Fireflies headlights.
We have time to take pictures at the top. View from the top amazing!
In the morning got up early again to Hobo - a couple of kilometers through the huge field of ice hummocks. I go toward dawn. The sun rises over the sails of hummocks, thousands of fragments reflected in transparent small pieces of ice. Mystery. Located at Cape Khoboy early in the morning, meet at the first rays of silence - this is a moment of happiness.
Nature apparently joked over a man. In the form of the rock clearly can see the silhouette of a woman. Southern Region and called Hobo - Rock Virgo. Its name Khoboy received for opening on the lake rock form resembling a canine animal ( "Khoboy" - means the Buryat language "Fang"). Mostly Khoboy laced through holes - apparently from raging winds here. From this rock still tied a legend. It is said, lived a young husband and wife. Her husband was a hardworking and tried for the family from morning to night. And not only for themselves - all around helped. A wife he was envious, harmful. And still it was not enough ... Here is a reward for hard work husband gods (Baikal spirits) gave the palace. And his wife was so envious that she decided to also have lake palace to ask. Here Baikal and punished the girl, turning her to stone. Why else would she needed a palace and why it is with a beard - the legend is silent ...
The wonderful winter tale - is the ice caves and grottos Hobo. Crashing waves of the Cape and the wind picked up by spray freeze juice on the rocks - with ice napleskami amazing shapes. The ice castles converted caves on the north side of the cape.
By Hoboyu it is difficult to get: Cape piled in front of a huge field of ice hummocks, in front of these fields - wet cracks. Olkhon tooth keeps the defense against lake.
Ahead - only far away the opposite shore of Lake Baikal. We have thoughts pass across the lake, reaching Ushkaniye. But rumors about the many cracks, the harsh winds overcame the slightly crazy idea. So we obognom Olkhon and go along the east coast.
Weather spoils raid clouds. It is amazing how quickly the weather can change on Lake Baikal. Keep your eyes open, with Baikal to be trifled with! Khoboy get round to avoid falling into a crevasse.
And so - we've go along the eastern shore of Olkhon. It seems far we have not gone, but nature has changed greatly: the ice and the other, and the rocks are like matches, stretched skyward.
Go lighter: everything from backpacks povyedali and ice hummocks after the field seems he pushes forward.
The cliffs around Uzury - the dream of the artist. Red and yellow flames seemed to rise into the sky over the powerful ice floes. You feel small and defenseless little man in front of the element. Today we had a basic plan - to send Loshu by car from Uzury in Khuzhir (he fly before). So we came to Uzury. Once empty here, guests clearly not happy: apparently already tired tourists here. Finally come two aunts. Their eyes are some bad, unclear. Asking for a car 5000, we laugh in the face. Bad people ... wait a little, consulted. From a distance, with a turn comes up to us a group of Germans in that time. Headed by her mother Russian guy. German comes ashore - plops down. All silly smile. For the Germans, then what you want gratification - and they warmed yurt and bathhouse flooded. That's local sold Siberian generosity and hospitality for foreign currency.
And we think - what to do next. Pay 5000 - exactly a bad option. A Loshu must somehow deliver to Khuzhir. The fact that we have decided and the technical part of the route (power, mileage and equipment, including skates) - in the next section ...