On a motorcycle in Nepal
All the thousands of events were limited to the fact that I was in the area of the hotel bed Thamel, in Kathmandu, Nepal, in which, sitting on the Internet and planning to further movement. At the head were the outline of the tracks, and my dream was to travel to Nepal on a motorcycle. After reading about the Annapurna Circuit and to the Everest base camp, I chose between them. Then, for the sake of interest it has entered into a search engine "Motorcycle tours in Nepal." At first I was surprised the paucity of information about motorcycle itineraries, it is strange that people travel in Nepal is much rarer than in India or Thailand.
The only thing I found - it is, as I understand, the newly opened Ukrainian route to the kingdom of Mustang border. It was organized by the two-week program for experienced motorcyclists for $ 3500 with a guide, a mechanic and a jeep escort, which drove the personal belongings of participants. Description of the tour I was very pleased: "We will pass on the deepest gorge in the world", "will go at the foot of the Nilgiri seventhousanders", "extreme road is not for the faint of heart," "unearthly views are guaranteed." Also, in the description, it was stated that the road is sand, water fords, stones and all of its passenger cars no longer travel. Attention to it, I did not pay, because they already consider yourself a skilled driver after runs north India and its major cities, so a cursory reading route, decided - the food first thing.
Feet and the road led to the fact that I had a companion, so the calculation should be based on the two bodies.
Kathmandu itself - is very similar to the Indian town-village, only evident that in addition to the Indians living there also kitaytsepodobnye people, of which a good half of Kathmandu. Similarly, as in India, a lot of sellers pristavuchih everything you can imagine. And in the evening to Connect to illegal sellers who are going to meet and rapidly approaching you ask in my ear: "????? Something / Smoke / opium / GASIS / hydro," if you do not react, pass on. Now I'm just all this I do not react, but from the beginning, when you every day 500 times offer pipes, ointments, all sorts of wacky musical instruments, it is rather strained.
Kathmandu, as the whole of Nepal, lives at the expense of rivers and hydroelectric plants installed on them, so from large rivers depends directly on whether there is electricity or not in the country. In the north of this, things are better, there is almost always full of the river, and here in Kathmandu, which is practically the most low-lying area, there is a small problem with this, especially in the winter season. They consist in the fact that the electricity in there for 10-12 hours a day. In a particular sense, this problem is solved by generators, but in general - is not solved, and most people are sitting without electricity. Naturally, the whole hotels no expensive electricity supply will not be, so I unwittingly became prosharennym walrus. Since such high-tech luxuries like hot heating in Nepal is missing, the entire hot water heated by boilers, and as is often no other luxury - the electricity, the hot water is always cold. Therefore, it is normal when the room in which the steam coming out of his mouth, taking an ice shower. Rubbing with a towel, exercise before and after showering - also becoming the norm. Looking ahead to say that in the past month stay in Nepal I never coughed and did not suffer any health problems, given that now there are cool enough.
I settled in the tourist area, where a third of stores - the "people's" clothing for tourists, a third - a mountain kit, a third - Hestia and restaurants. In general, the place is ideal for gourmand climber or adventurer. Close to Kathmandu is full of temples and holy cities, so it was decided to take the now familiar Palsar and ride it around Kathmandu. I visited Swayambhunath - sacred Buddhist temple with excellent views. Just visited Pasupatinate - sacred suburbs - a crematorium where dumped the dead for burning ritual.
The streets Pasupatinata.
Location is on a river, along which there are concrete projections. These projections put the deceased in a special wooden frame and ignited after the ritual of farewell
The locals are already accustomed to the fact that a person is burnt completely in front of them, just watch. Yes, and I kind of burning feet or head nothing but interest did not cause, so I protorchal there half an hour and got 2 rite. The most interesting - this rite mood. No anguished people black suit and other oppressive funeral attributes. All forgiven as though he was already lucky enough to be there. What is reasonable. If you drop all the tinsel, it turns out that this is the most intuitive way to bid farewell to a man. Why all this fake wrapper in the form of wreaths, costumes and doroguschih monuments. Just does not make sense in the eternal memory of the dead, tears, suffering and so on. The man died, he was already spitting and no human tears will not cleanse his karma or soul, when viewed from this perspective. Just too late, and therefore there is no need. Also, cremation is logical in terms of body disposal. You have to buy a bunch of lazy, in contrast to the Russian rite graves, cemeteries, monuments and priests. Why corpses ten square meters of real estate? Why would she Orchestra? Why the party after 9 and 40 days? Everything is clear with the cremation. Said goodbye, burned, ashes dispelled. Everything is simple and cheap. I would like to leave it like that, without tinsel and traces
After half an hour it will sweep away the ashes in the sacred river, and all disperse.
After a wonderful kouchserfing we found remarkable Roma - Nepali, who spent several years in Russia, learning exchange. He offered to stay with him, despite the fact that he lives in a studio apartment with my brother. We met, ate a delicious and sincerely talked. It was decided not to embarrass him with his presence, and just leave him some of the things on the trip. He came to our guesthouse, took things helped to make a deal on buying some warm clothes and gave some useful tips on the road. Roma, if you're reading this - you respect and uvazhuha (apply for the translation). Next, it required to find the appropriate Nepal mountain bike. The tour described that they were going to the Indian Bazhazhah Pulsar, one man and a small backpack on a bike. This is perfect, light and maneuverable Pulsar is relatively easy to keep on the mountain roads. But we were two and we had two large backpack, so Pulsar fell away simply because there is nowhere to place our luggage indiscreet, not to mention the fact that the second person on his sadominimalistichnoy harnesses to go it would be very painful. There was an option to go to Bazhazhe Avenger, where I went to India, but he was dropped for lack of attachment to a backpack behind. Yes, and I wanted to try another motorcycle, namely the one Royal Enfield Bullet. In Thamel I had several offices, which are handed over Anfield but somewhere price was inflated (3,000 Nepalese rupees a day = 1,000 rubles), a deplorable state. Everything has come together in a relatively new red bullet with 10,000 runs 2,100 rupees a day. Enfields issued many years ago by the British, since then and produced in India by the same drawings and the same name. Of course, the suspension was modified and put electric starter, but for some reason did not deign even to work a little with its weight. Motorcycle large by Indian standards, and heavy with a high center of gravity. 200 kg of total iron cylinder 350 cubes huge front telescopic fork, rear gas shock absorbers and a pair of spring dampers on harnesses. Huge 19-inch spoke wheels, a comfortable sofa for two, a fastening luggage on the rear wheel, the rear overhang with a headlamp and a very powerful front spotlight. Separate paragraph to write about his sound. Earlier, I read about his trademark side-by-side-by-side, but live - it's just the second rock concert between his legs. What goes behind Enfield, unmistakably recognized from the next quarter. And when passing by local, be sure to shout: "Bullet!" and portray his sound. In Nepal and India, he is very respected, for road and convenient. After Honda Steed - I sat down and went, problems with movement alone did not have, though, and felt a solid weight and high center of gravity. It seems that everything was ready for departure, if at first there were no problems with the luggage bracket on the back of the headlight, and then with a simple movement under full load. One and a half hours crepe luggage, and then 2 times fell with the bike, not even having to leave the city. Anfield with a passenger and luggage massive do not need special occasions to be filled up on its side, you just tilt it a little relative to the ground. Once I slipped the idea that all of this - an impossible fool's errand.
But the eyes are afraid, but the hands are the same, and we start his first city route - Pokhara, though late, is already learning to drive on the road. The road is a very nice and comfortable asphalt streamers, like the Indian, but with a beautiful view. And I finally drove them back motorcycle. Below the road, just above the bike and at the top - I. I rest against his hands on the steering wheel and the steering wheel in cooperation with a fork and the wheel rests on the road. And where I turn the wheel in the wrong direction and will go a motorcycle. Without fences, frames and straps. Only the bike can give such a direct connection to the road and get from this giant-sized buzz
They arrived at Pokhara after dark, navernuvshis only 1 time on the road. Riding, as always, on a whim, knowing only the name of the destination that you can ask the local, and the rest - addresses attractions, hotels and procheem - find out when he was on the spot. In general, all the way, I learned to trust in existence, we are now with him on one side of the field, we play together. Having driven in Pokhara, on the main ring and navorachivaya circles on this ring, pondering what to do next and how to go away, we drove up to the Nepalese, and on the move proposed hotel. There, in the ring, we bargained and drove him to his hotel. The hotel was luxurious by our standards a guest, which gave room for 700 rupees a day on the top floor with a huge terrace. Did not have to even think about, once they threw things and went to eat
The morning began with a mountain view, which was opened from our terrace. Pokhara was very cool cozy town on the lake - the former abode of the very real hippies, after which the atmosphere has remained. There's a blues bar, dedicated to Anfield - Bullet Beyskemp and a bunch of other stylish establishments. Pokhara start many trekking routes, including those to the base camp of Annapurna. So purely in the Nepalese style, a lot of restaurants with food and megavkusnoy positive waiters. Also with pokharovskogo hill offers the best view of all three peaks of Annapurna.
The city very much and it was decided to stay there for a couple of days until the cut at all, that is. At the same time this city had my 24th birthday. To change the numbers, no matter where it was, I calmly, so remember it almost evening. In my opinion, unfair to share her life to young people, the youth, the heyday of old age, the years and generally any periods. Life - it is a whole event, and not a few pieces with the presence of features of each of them. It is unclear what kind of laws in the minds of people settled stereotype that necessarily have to be a family and a child to 25 years, and 50 is no longer possible to drop everything and go on tour around the world on the mower. It is because of the periodical distinctions people do not do what they want, so do not live. "I'm still young - have time" and "Yes, I have the old, where I" - the same reception daily deprive a man of his true dream. In fact, no old age, no age or years, there is one big now, that sits between our feet and the crown
After 2 days we moved to the next point - Tatopani, to the hot springs, warm teeth. Here I met with extreme Nepalese road. Acquaintance began with the fact that from the next blow took the rear wheel forward, thereby causing the scroll star. As soon as I stopped to see what was happening, he ran up to me with the Nepalese set of tools and began to repair it.
At the adjusting wheel and thanked who has taken horseradish understand how the master three hundred rupees, we moved on.
Before each ascent or descent I involuntarily uttered a shortened version of the phrase "a wow rise, how I'll come back." And when it seems that has passed the most difficult section of road in the universe as once come across an even more sophisticated. Somewhere between the cobblestones and the pit have overtaken the second problem - torn grip. Forward-Indians have given me in the way a spare cable, but to change it, I needed tools. 10 minutes after our friend drove us to the trauma guy on a motocross Honda and tried to help me change the grip. After several unsuccessful attempts, warning that at night there is dangerous, because tigers are hunted at this time of day, he gave me his tools and left. I fussed with the clutch half hour, meeting the sunset, trying to squeeze it in place of the old one.
can also be seen functionally lost in one of the fords of sneakers
But in the end a new rope was too short and we finally got up, all in the darkness and dirt. Every 10 minutes passing by any transport, but after dark this segment tripled and it was decided to throw the bike on the road, back to the opposite line to the nearest big city, and the next day to come to the mechanic and the new clutch. The first transport, which could stopanut was a tractor (!) With two 15-year-old (!) Drunk (!) Nepalese, who, under the screaming from the tractor going down the music. The boys did not speak in English, and after half an hour talking to someone on the phone, it became clear that if we leave today, tomorrow the bike at this place will be gone. After the meeting (again thanks to Roma) decided threesome with two skinny guys ship dvuhsotkilogramovuyu fool the trailer, which was to them in the chest. From this news guys sobered up slightly, so the loading was successful. Tying the bike, we plunged into the cab and drove down with a speed of 5-8 km / h up to Beni - the nearest village with a workshop. We rode 3 hours path that previously did for an hour in the cold and in the metal tube instead harnesses. But with the Nepalese folk music and screaming teenagers song. Just go to a metal pipe - boring, so I added in the transport list, which made the trip even a tractor, a half-hour to steer them and get to the end point.
Arriving in Beni we threw things, unloaded the bike, took an icy shower and sat down to eat with our saviors, where the light were the first to see their young, but the serious faces. Dine delicious for the whole trip hoists (bean sauce, steamed rice, tortilla, fried and fresh vegetables with unlimited supply), to thank the guys a thousand rupees, we cut.
The next morning, the master was found, the clutch and we started to conquer the road for the second time. When driving, then with every stroke in the wheel I recalled all the adjectives that describe this road in the tour program. It consists of a dense mixture of stones, gravel, sand, track, dirt, and when we climbed higher, even ice.
One day, we quickly climbed the steep incline, the remaining one and only a narrow strip of dry sand road. To the right was a break in the river, the left - the track with wet muddy mess. Stop to assess the situation, it is impossible, at this slide and the load the motorcycle poskolzit and will roll back to the plane, it does not matter to you in the saddle, or without. Pull over in a rut with the mess meant absolutely screwed, and then fly out of it somewhere to the ancestors. There was another version of a cliff and the river. All this is happening because of some a couple of seconds, and when you realize that you have now no choice but to pass on this narrow section, in muscles and head happens claustrophobia and neurosis. Due to the uncertainty and extreme concentration, you begin to feel each of his cell that are responsible for the direction of motion of the wheel and they tense up so much that they begin hysteria and overheating, so they behave inappropriately, making it all the way around. At that moment I chose the option to drop and slid into the wet track.
The motorcycle swerved escaping from my hands, he stalling, slipping on the sand and wander. Sometimes, when in front of me growing up another giant boulder thought is generally possible to go down this road. Meet on the way buses and trucks with wheels detached - a common occurrence. Pass the river, into which the bike plunges half - too. And when on a sandy rocky road swerved back wheel, and I could not cope with the drift, without getting off the bike, holding him driving and kicking, not to be mislaid. And the only way to Nepalese need to enter the turns on a steep slope, at the same time to go around the icy puddle, dodging oncoming bus on one side and rubble - other
But by some miracle we got to Tatopani on a motorcycle. Arrived and settled in one of the coolest hotel village with views of the raging river, immediately went to the famous hot springs. Water heated by the volcanic magma, was directed people to a large concrete bath, to cool evenings warm Nepalese for themselves. Since we did not go in the season, he found there only a couple of red boiled Europeans and a few Indians. Bath itself is almost on the banks of the river, so we, purely in Russian, ran into an icy river, plunged into it with his head and returned to a hot bath. A pair of elderly Europeans first, wide-eyed, watching us, then still decide to walk to the river. I went to watch the interest of the picture. First to the river reached the woman and dipping his foot in the river, he issued a scream. Man, looking at her, and before reaching the river, silently turned around and went back. Good otogrevshis and taking cold shower, we went to dinner The next morning went to the training camp and a little excitement. If the next station will be even tougher, the motorcycle may simply not survive, that would be a good hit on the trip and my wallet. For everything else I have not experienced, and the next section asked us to Anfield even more hellish heat in the cold Nepal. It has excellent road and we were dimmed as they could.
to calculate where in the fall will be less painful
In such places just start screaming battle cry, give gas and - come what may
Here we see just how much I do not want to eat again dust
Who is more, he is the chief
I decided to stand up and put the motorcycle near
are leaving with the kids
Since the road was mainly due to rises, then all the previous have added charms and ice. About him I have learned along the way when we met standing on top of the tractor lift, which was preparing to move out down. Prohvatit past him, I thought, well, like the descent descent, well, think of it, wet, not the first time. The surprise was in the end of the descent, when the road turned into an icy mirror. All the way, I concluded that the motorcycle is not dangerous conditions than the ice, when you lose control of the bike is 90%. On the ice, it is difficult even to keep the bike under him, not to mention the fact, to somehow move, so at the end of the descent, I welled up safely, pognuv protection motorcycle knee and satellite. It was the price for what we went to the coldest time of the year, without paying attention to the recommendations in the route. This site shows everything that is capable of Nepalese road - from the quicksand of dry sand, which I bore in different directions, to the river crossing, where I soaked through all the legs. Before Kalapani we again got the course.
Interim village, which does not represent anything interesting, except for the positive Bicol, we met once at the entrance to the village. It is so loud and happily began to greet us and call to her in a guest, that we do not even have to watch the others. His attitude, sincerity, and an inability to cook, he entertained us for two days.
When I said that Kalapani not represent anything interesting - I lied just to be witty. In fact, in the village of a unique location. It is located in the valley, and everywhere you look, everywhere snowy peaks at a very close distance.
When the moon was rising, then I just froze and did not know what was going on:
Just as during the day, only at night
The next morning, when I was tied to a motorcycle backpacks, flew me young Nepalese mountain biking and enjoying Enfield, started asking about him, and in general how we got here. A minute later, I was surrounded by a group of cyclists from Germany, Poland, France and Nepal, expressing my Respect for the bike path and the work done on it. From me they received more emotional respect, because these guys go from Jomsom to Pokhara and all the way will prodelyvat bikes. Some of them go is not the first time I inquired about the quality of the road on my way further, he received an optimistic - there will be no worse
After that, I spent 20 minutes that would have to have a motorcycle, because the night was cool. At the same time he warmed up, because to start with Anfield Kick, holding it with one foot - it is a set of exercises. Anyway, I read somewhere that the Bullet - it is a personal gym in addition to a motorcycle, which is true, but the more the habit, with a passenger and luggage. Because if he starts to overwhelm, to hold him without cramps in the legs - hard
The next part of the journey was given simply because I do not know how to do several things at once, and the main thing was to enjoy nature and the mountains:
Part of the journey is also on steep hills, but then the road smoothly into the river bed, and as at this time of year nepolnovodnye river, I could move on it already. The height of these places - almost 2,000 meters, and the sides are seventhousanders, thereby forming the deepest gorge in the world with a depth of almost 6 kilometers:
Gradually the landscape starts to leave the vegetation, and the area becomes a two-color space to the scale on which the eye loses its orientation:
All the views of the ordinary road has long been erased:
Lifting height immediately made itself felt fever and prices. 1,500 crore to eat and having obtained all the blankets that were in the hotel, we left the next day.
This day was remarkable for the fact that we had to reach the end point of the trip - Muktinath. The road is the same - ups, cliffs, surf, scree, rocks and ice in a rut. Endure and fight I'm used to from childhood, thanks judo and my coach, so the road will be mastered quickly enough navernuvshis only once. What happens to you on the way, it is impossible to describe with words, or show a photograph, this species mixed with your state and the motor sound. Sometimes it is impossible to figure out once you're on a planet, and in general - who are you and what you did before. From such a strong concentration of emotions tore me laugh, and feeling that I understood everything at once, but separately. Everything becomes so simple that if I was in that moment framed spoon, I would have laughed and bent it a single thought. I felt sorry for urban dwellers when passing another seventhousander sailed, and my mind was equal to him in the next moment did not exist any urban residents. ceased to exist then even the clothes on me and the bike beneath me, could only view.
Muktinath - sacred village with sewing scarves Nepalese grandmothers, at an altitude of 3800 meters. Having arrived, checked into the hotel, Bob Marley, sat down at the Freedom Café. Poofigevav on local prices and the taste of apple fresh, thoroughly gorged. Generally, with a meal at such a height, and in general in Nepal, a special relationship. We did not eat, we will destroy the products. Immediately after lunch, blends in with sweet tea, dinner started. At this altitude, where they cook delicious little because of the scarcity of food, but we do not stop niskolechko. Payment for all at the end came the giant bill. In the Muktinath very cool. We protorchali there for three days, just enjoying its sunset and stay there.
In addition to all, it is unclear why there was very warm. Whether anticyclone, or whether we have become accustomed to the cold, but it was the most comfortable accommodation and go from there did not want to
This is the end point and continue the road no. There are only a handful of its similarity to those who want to drive your bike to the maximum height, which I did.
In general, at this height drive only bazhazhy other malokubaturnye motorcycles, because the engine is greater than a pint, just can not be started due to lack of sufficient oxygen. Local told us about the 900-cc BMW, who miraculously risen to these heights, but went back on the tractor. Indeed, if the bike and wound up, then felt a huge power loss. Slides, which previously started from the place, are difficult even with overclocking. Well, in the end, at an altitude of 4200 meters Enfield still irrevocably stalled. And only after at neytralke I managed to pull a couple of hundred meters, all working again.
Also in this village is Muktinath Temple - the oldest Buddhist-Hindu temple, a place of pilgrimage for thousands of Buddhists. When there are 108 sacred springs and, according to legend, if a dip in all one hundred and eight, it is possible to get rid of negative karma of previous incarnations
We are so that commercials kicks plunge into the cold water in the cold, so we did not hesitate drove for spare smelting and returned to the source. The idea was to run under all the 108 sources, not missing a single one. What we did
Just next to Muktinath, it is the world's highest pedestrian pass Thorung La, its height - 5400 meters
We were told to go to him for a long time, but we do not deny. Out at 10 am and only 3 o'clock in the afternoon met people coming forward. On the question of how much we still have to go up to the pass, the answer was - 4 hours. That is, we would have reached him just after sunset. At an altitude of 5400 meters, regardless of the time of day, very windy, and after dark can easily start another and blizzard. Basically, we have all kind of things that we were so cold we could move. And in the darkness down we would have been able to have been a flashlight. But there was another problem - the possibility of a snowstorm. Usually these routes insert sticks with flags, and the periodicity of the poles must match the minimum visibility to in a snowstorm on a stick could see another. At least, that's how it was on Elbrus. At La Thorung were also sticks with flags, but they are at a distance, even in dry weather, they can not see, and indeed, they are there only a few pieces to fly the route. There were of course, and headache, and abdominal pain, and pressure - but as natural secondary factors, with which I was already familiar. In the end, it was decided to turn around. The return journey took much time because of the condition of the body, so we returned to the village only to 8 pm. Along with the disappointment of failure came understanding and correctness of the decision, because I had not acclimatised fully and after returning down with malaise and headache. And somewhere between the second and third dream I met a shift, the Russian calendar. It was decided to accept this outing as an acclimatization to the base camp of Mount Everest, and the next day, half an hour spent on it to start the motorcycle, we pushed off on the return journey.
In the end, all driving and road problems are a matter of experience, and all the difficult parts of the road, without straining, I went on my way back.
Also, it is not panic, you begin to disperse at high speed, the rise and narrow road with tractors and buses. I have no rounding eyes began to come out of the rear wheel skid and learned to hold a motorcycle when he began to be filled up. Also on the way back I stopped to deal with the road, engaging only in order to keep the bike from falling, and began to use the strengths and weaknesses of relief. And though in the opposite direction to go was difficult, the road was given to quickly and easily due to the fact that I crossed the threshold of fear and finally went.
My level of motorcycle has increased so much that now I can immediately win any motocross competitions on the sports bike, and after 10 minutes after that - ring race on chopper. I advise all newcomers such intensity. The instinct of self-preservation - the best teacher.
Well, to me as a driver, just interesting to see and neighing over the road more difficult, if it exists. We arrived to Kathmandu for 4 days, again hovering in Pokhara for two days.
Pokhara had excellent relations, it's just cool, a perfect place to stay for a long time and dive into anything.
It is also necessary to give honor to my companions. With confidence I can say that I understand Enfield and established a great relationship with him. If he was a girl, I would be in love with him, but it's chunky, hefty man, so our relationship with him grew into a strong male friendship. There is hardly any bike, which will be equally good feel and on a perfectly flat road, and in a half-meter rocky ford. I understood why local so violently react to this bike, I realized why in Pokhara there are very bar - Bullet Beyskemp understood why fans Anfield greet each other and going all over the world.
It is also unlikely that we would have reached if the living is my companion did not sit back so still for a few hours and did not help me to lift out of the mud, sand and water, our unit
I'm proud of us, that we have come this way, it was a real adventure. And I will never forget that in his hands a thousand kilometers a distinctive way.
Not without loss: two rear indicator, the rear reflector, the shift lever, the left foot support, left and right rear-view mirrors, the spring boards, the clutch, the rear wheel, the slider and speedometer damaged in various proportions. The most my big fear was regarding the engine. He worked for sverhrezhimah for several hours, but no knock, and generally have no problems arose with him, he only limit your all oil and belched fun. Surely most reliable motor.
The country itself has left a lasting impression, especially the rural parts. Impressed relevant to village children. It's not stand on ceremony with them, unlike our greenhouse. I learned how to keep the balance? Go drags logs. I learned to talk - Blow work seller. Has grown to the countertop? The kitchen. You have 15? It's time to drive trucks and tractors on steep roads
On the way back met a detachment of young workers
, and gave them the last Snickers
Also interesting is a simple routine that life
swaddle baby bed of straw mat on the road - a piece of cake
For half an hour to prepare from goat chops - also not a problem
I am currently in Kathmandu, collect on susekam ending money for a trip to Everest base camp and eat. Lots of it.
What to do next - I'll never know, but the plans so that the return to Krasnoyarsk - the last option. I even myself wondering how everything goes on and where I will withdraw my gyrus in the company with a fluke